Mirepoix Review- Windsor, CA.
Having lived in Windsor the past few years, I've had the opportunity to develop a few favorite establishments, including Odyssey, the Green Grocer and Mirepoix.
The latter I visited with my wife on a none to special Wednesday night. Making a 6pm reservation, we entered the once was house turned Michelin star worthy French bistro.
With a bottle of Adobe Road 2006 Pinot Noir in hand, we were promptly seated in the corner booth; one other table was occupied. After reviewing the menu and debating between the sweetbreads or the beef tartare for appetizers we made our decision and our waiter cracked open the bottle of Pinot.
We started with the frites ($6, **** out of *****), which were just as I remembered them- bordering on perfection, but slightly over salted. I believe they are first blanched in water, cooled, then double fried. Either way, they were just as frites should be.
Then my tartare arrived. Steak tartare with crab ($13, ****), croutons and a perfectly cooked egg. The presentation perfect, the beef appropriately seasoned and all the components worked well together. This was the second best dish we had that. The dish was delicate and refined, not over whelming like some tartares can be and the toasted quail egg added another layer of needed texture to the dish. It's hard to find a good restaurant that does steak tartare this well.
As I ravaged my plate of tartare, my wife poked a way at a green salad with preserved Meyer lemons, goat cheese and vinaigrette ($8, ***). As the waiter presented the prixe fixe menu ($26) my wife took fancy to the salad he described and asked if she could get that separately, which he said would be no problem. The flavors were good and she was particularly impressed with the sweetness of the lemon rinds. Overall though the salad consisted of a total of 8 greens... Not quite worth it and we both chuckled as the minuscule plate of greenage arrived at the table. To put it into context, for the same price you get a serious plate of butter lettuce or a large caesar salad. This salad was more of an amuse bouche, simply on a plate rather than a tidy spoon.
The main courses arrived about 30 minutes after our apps were finished. Having finished our bottle of wine (we had been there for about 75 minutes) we asked for the wine list. My duck confit with fennel raviolis and spring peas appeared ($17, **), nicely presented with the bright green of the spring peas popping out on the white plate. Mirepoix has a nightly special and this was Wednesdays grand finale. The duck was perfectly cooked, as you'd expect of a duck leg roasting in glorious duck fat- crispy, salty and delicious. The problems arose when I took a bite of all the components combined. There was an underlining taste of vinegar and bitterness which didn't work well with the sweetness of the peas (my wife cringed on her initial bite... she didn't ask for seconds). And the raviolis, while not bad on there own, didn't mesh well with the other ingredients (and there were only two raviolis on the plate- it invoked plate envy as I looked over at my neighbor and their towering plate of mussels and frites). The peas were a nice balance and their freshness helped offset the dark, richness of the duck. Too bad they had to sauce the plate. A little herb oil might have done the trick.
The pork shank with creamed brussel sprouts and butternut squash gratin, which I had begged my wife to order was "Oh Face" inducing ($23, *****). Slightly crispy on the outside and perfectly braised fork tender pork that fell off the bone. The portion was huge, which permitted me to graze on it freely. This was by far the best dish of the night. The brussel sprouts were perfectly cooked and were not the soggy sadness that you might expect when dealing with creamed vegetables.After finished our entrees, the waiter finally came by and asked about the wine list he had dropped off 30 minutes ago. I politely mentioned that since we were done eating I wasn't interested in another glass of wine. He quickly brought over a half glass of wine on the house. Very thoughtful.
Overall, it was a nice way to spend 2 hours- eating away at classic French fare tucked inside the warmth of a small, cozy house turned bistro. The food is the most consistent element to the Mirepoix dining experience. The service though is a slightly different story. Each time I've dined here, there is a certain snooty element, especially from the head female waiter (same one we've had the last few times) that puts a damper on the overall impression. It's almost as if we were causing her some level of discomfort by being there (every time she'd fill our water glasses we'd politely say thank you and she'd simply walk off, never a smile, a "your welcome", nada).
That being said there is another recurrent theme in dining at Mirepoix; one which I don't fully understand. The average age of the other diners was easily 55+. Which would put us as the youngest people in the restaurant by nearly 25 years. Maybe the wait staff thought us "kids" were going to run off without paying the bill or tip. Or maybe they were afraid we didn't know what tartare was and we'd send it back. The fact was I noticed we were treated differently than the other attorneys and doctors that were there that night (we sat next to some malpractice attorneys who continued to mispronounce frites).
Either way, the restaurant was full by time we left and it appears this little 24 seat establishment has done just that... establish itself. It seems Mirepoix has a nice, local, cult following and while the chef/owner Matthew Bousquet isn't handing out the "Koolaid" to customers, he is instead dishing out inspiring French fare.
