It was a long weekend... Within a 16 hour time frame, 60 lbs of short ribs were cooked in my not-so-large kitchen, over 600 servings were plated and dished out in only a few hours (sous chef Matt to thank for that) and a trophy was taken home that says "Guys Can Cook Too Winners- Appetizer Category."
Gusy Can Cook Too is an event put on by the Sebastapol Rotary in which, amateur chefs (about 50 of them) compete and serve food to over 500 attendees. They are judged on taste, presentation and originality. Attendees place their votes and then professional chefs judge the food as well.
The cooking shenanigans started Friday afternoon when I picked up 60 lbs of massive short ribs from Joe at the Green Grocer. He was nice enough to hook me up with a deal on them and they looked beautiful. It was the equivalent of a local Kobe short rib. The marbling worked wonders for the taste and texture of the meat, but the high fat content proved to be problematic when it came to our sauces (more on that later).
All of Friday, and late into the night/ early a.m. was spent searing meat, sweating vegetables and making braising liquid. And then repeating. It felt like a never ending cycle and to make matters worse I was going to bed at 3am knowing that I'd have to wake up in 4 hours and do it all over again. I was going to have nightmares about dinosaur sized short ribs.
The initial plan at the competition had been to make a braised short rib topped with a little pear reduction. A few days prior to the event I realized that the dish needed some kind of textural contrast. Normally, when I braise short ribs I throw them under a broiler for a minute to develop a nice crust. This wasn't an option at this event. I contemplated bringing my creme brulee torch, but that just didn't seem practical. While shopping for short ribs at Safeway for a test run, I had an epiphany in the cereal isle... rice krispies with some Chinese five spice. These would provide the much needed crunch (and originality) to the dish. The Thursday before the event we did a test run with the krispies and pear reduction. The tasters seemed to approve but I felt it was missing something.
Fast forward to Saturday morning and I'm putting in the last batch of short ribs in the oven to braise. While putting the canola oil back up into the cabinet, I saw what turned out to be the possible saving grace for the dish... balsamic vinegar. I reduced a squeeze bottles worth, Matt (my friend/ sous chef for the day) came over, we packed up everything and we were off.
After getting our booth setup and our prep area worked out, we did a taste test- braised short rib bite, pear and balsamic reduction, Chinese five spice krispies and some of the reduced braising liquid... I didn't like it... At all. There was an overwhelming taste and mouth feel of grease and fat. I had botched it and added some of the non-skimmed pan juices into my braising liquid reduction from that morning. So the already skimmed sauce that was reducing on the stove, got a fresh injection of fatty fluids and what was left in my tasting cup and now in my mouth was a yellowish, fatty liquid. Not good. We decided right then and there to ditch the braising liquid and go with just the pear and balsamic reduction. This worked out perfectly in the end and we wound up with a crapload of votes for our dish, garnering us the Popular Vote winner in the apps category.
Matt, my sous chef was kicking tail with the prep work and pumping out portions like their was no tomorrow. It wouldn't have worked without him. Below is a modified version of the recipe we cooked. If you want to add the rice kripsies, simply cook a few cups in some canola oil and add a teaspoon or two of Chinese five spice and a sprinkle of sugar. Wait for them to almost caramelize. For the sauces you can reduce some pear juice and balsamic vinegar, or try without. Either way, have fun cooking it and pair it with some sake.
Enjoy.
Pear & Sake Braised Short Ribs
Serves 4-6
2 cups pear or apple juice
1 cup sake
1 cup mirin
½ cup sugar
1 cup soy sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
10 cloves crushed garlic
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed
4 to 5 pounds short ribs
2 large onions, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 pound carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
½ cup chopped scallions
4 cups cooked white rice.
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a saucepan, combine juice, sake, mirin, sugar, soy sauce, about 20 grinds of pepper, both forms of garlic, sesame oil and 1½ cups water. Bring to a boil, then simmer.
- Put corn or grapeseed oil in a large ovenproof braising pan or skillet over medium-high heat and add ribs, seasoning them liberally with salt and pepper. Brown well on all sides, moving them around to promote even browning. Remove from pan and add onions and the carrots, stirring vegetables occasionally.
- Ad ribs back to pan. Carefully pour braising liquid over meat and bake, bone-side up and submerged in liquid (add water or juice if necessary), covered, for 3 to 4 hours, until meat falls from bones. Cool ribs in liquid for 1 hour, then remove; strain liquid. At this point, ribs and liquid can be covered and refrigerated overnight.
- Remove bones from ribs. In a pot, combine meat with braising liquid; heat to a boil then simmer, reducing liquid until syrupy. If it seems too thick, thin with a bit of water. While this is reducing make the white rice.
- Taste mixture and adjust seasonings if necessary, then garnish with scallions and serve on rice